Most early civilisations were led by a strong ruler who dressed in a dramatic way to display his riches and power. Warriors used weapons and armour to defend their lands, and both men and women used natural fibers and animal skins and adorned themselves with body paint, jewellry, and ornaments. Once a society became reasonably settled and prospered, traders exchanged goods for precious items used to create fine jewelry and costumes.

The Ancient World traces the history of costume from the last Ice Age, when people first started wearing clothes, to the collapse of the Roman Empire in the late fifth century CE. Divided into chapters by region, it outlines the early history of costume from prehistoric times to the emergence of the first cities, and surveys the succession of civilisations that arose in the Middle East. Specific chapters cover ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, as well as the cultures of India, eastern Asia, and the Pacific region.

Specific coverage includes the hair and make-up worn in ancient Egypt, the woven fabrics of Greece, Roman baths, silk making in ancient China, and textiles in South America.